Ape index reddit. 15d if Ape Index =O” system would read (I’m clearly joking). Reddit gives you the best of the internet in one place. What I'm talking about is called an ape index, it's basically your wingspan compared to your height. "Height bad, BMI good. The average Joe has a wingspan that's either equal or an inch or two longer than their height. Ape index is basically the same as reach. It’s not like grades take it into account. I have dreams of ONE DAY being able to do 8a routes and above. Then the relative mechanical advantage is nice. Until I get to lock off on something or pistol squat up on a foot. The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). Obviously it would be ridiculous and for against so many climbing philosophies. The ape index can be measured in two ways, either it is the difference or the ratio of your arm span and… Jun 4, 2024 · Some people believe that the greater the ape index, the better climber you will be but does it really offer you an advantage in climbing? hoseok lee has a terrible ape index and still crushes really hard . 9 if Ape index >0/5. For the level that most of us will ever get too i dont think something like ape index will matter too much. The average LHW has a greater ape index than the average HW. I’m not too tall but I’m 5’8 at 17 with a 6’7 wingspan, size 14 shoe. For example, Anthony Joshua and Joe Joyce may be the same height, but Joshua has a larger ape index, with an 82 inch reach compared to Joe Joyce's 80 inch reach. A lot of bouldering moves feel waaaaay harder just because there is literally less space to pivot from and a lot more. APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. No clue why my arms are that long but, is this normal? And how might I figure out my ape index. (size 46 feet, too. Ape index 1. As I understand it, you have a mildly above average wingspan for your height (ape index of +4in). Interestingly enough, MW is the rangiest of all weight classes on average, with a greater average ape index and leg proportion than the averages of both LHW and HW. Jul 16, 2025 · The ape index climbing is a way climbers measure their wingspan relatively to their body. 13 or +10" I am a terrible climber, but can sometimes get away with "hard" moves that are difficult only because of reach. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. That one person reversed the correlation for women. Kinda funny how long my arms are in comparison to my height 😂 You argue ape index is mathematically flawed, but where is the flaw? Being unitless is a novelty, especially since ape index is always reported next to height, which does have units. 10a if Ape Index<0/5. I will still complain about my -8cm ape index and tiny short legs. The u/ape_index community on Reddit. Everyone talks about ape index, but is leg length relative to height important when climbing? I never noticed leg length at all until talking to some people and we realized that we have drastically different leg lengths - like a 6 inch range when we're within an inch of one another in height. Anyway, I'm sure there are statisticians or math-savvy climbers here who can make much more of it than we did. To add on top of that, I have a negative 4'' ape index which I feel like a lot of people don't understand the disadvantages of unless you suffer from big negative ape indexes too. " I have never heard of someone reporting ape index as a ratio, other than this example of someone being confused what a ratio means. Of course having a positive ape index is a pro but i do think there are certain movments where having a negative ape index helps. I'm wondering how much a negative ape index is going to physically Does anybody have reliable data on the height/ape index stuff for all the top athletes? I would definitely support the theory that she is the best female climber and by far the most well rounded. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. I recently measured my ape index for the first time, it's -5cms, pretty negative. Long Torso still seems like dead weight though Reply reply 5973pm • The leg proportion of the average FLW is greater than that of the average BW. and i'm short (female) to top it off. Imagine how contrived a “5. ) See full list on thewanderingclimber. But does it matter? Click to find out. Dec 14, 2021 · Ape Index Calculator Height: inches cm Wingspan: inches cm Calculate A very common subject among climbers is their ape index. I have gotten fairly 'good' apparently for the amount of time I've been climbing, and I'm especially passionate about outdoor sport climbing. com Jan 24, 2010 · Also are there other varying anatomic proportions apart from the ape index, that play a role in gymnastics? "Typical of both men and women modern gymnasts is the 'ectomorph' and 'ecti-mesomorph' type of body composition and constitution, moderately wide shoulders, narrow hips, long arms, relatively long legs and a short trunk.
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